Chapter 66 Clothing

Generally speaking, it is not necessary to wear a crown when wearing ordinary clothes. You can replace it with a hairpin. Among Taoists, jade and wooden hairpins are the most common. The material determines the price.

Then there is the Taoist robe. This Taoist robe is not a Taoist priest's robe, but an extremely popular casual clothes. From the emperor to the common people, Taoist robes are regarded as one of the main clothing for daily wear.

The shape of the Taoist robe is: straight collar, big placket, right lapel, big sleeve cuffs, the collar is inlaid with a collar protector, slits on both sides, connected with a hidden hem, with three pleats or no pleats on the hidden hem, and tied with a tie. It can be worn with silk sash, thin cloth belt or large belt. In the previous Wei Dynasty, Taoist robes were already very popular and were almost a standard accessory for scholars. Because scholars knew a lot of principles, the world called them "Taoist robes", but it had nothing to do with Taoism.

Before the Daxuan Dynasty, the general trend of Taoist robes was that the sleeves continued to become wider, and large and long sleeves were favored by people. By the end of the Wei Dynasty, the "big sleeves" of the robes had developed to the point of being somewhat exaggerated.

In the earliest times, Taoist robes were as long as the shoes, and the sleeves were no more than a foot. Later, the clothes gradually became shorter and the sleeves became larger, reaching just below the knees. The robe was dragged outside the robe, and the sleeves reached three feet. The sleeves were cupped and the bottoms reached the boots. Then pile them on the boots.

In other words, the sleeves of the Taoist robe are so exaggerated that when the hands are cupped and bowed, the bottoms of the sleeves can pile up to the top of the shoes.

When Daxuan conquered the world and Taoism defeated Confucianism, changes were made to the Taoist robes. First, the wide sleeves were changed to narrow sleeves, and then the length of the clothes was slightly adjusted to facilitate movement.

The price of Taoist robes is also determined by the material.

The last thing is shoes. During the previous Wei Dynasty, the shoes were very shallow, no more than an inch. Now, my feet are very deep and my mouth is almost like jumping.

The so-called "芊" refers to prosthetic foot. In ancient times, there was a torture method called "cutting off", which involved cutting off both feet of the prisoner. Therefore, there is an idiom "The lowly shoes and the expensive ones", which means that too many people have been subjected to "cutting off", which makes shoes cheaper and prosthetic feet more expensive. expensive.

Therefore, today's shoes are somewhat similar to short boots, using more materials, and the price has also increased, but the most important factor in determining the price is the material.

Qi Xuansu entered a clothing store called "Su Ji".

Hairpins, robes, and shoes are listed on the three walls, making it clear at a glance.

"What does this guest want?" The owner of the shop, a woman, stood behind the counter and asked proactively.

Qi Xuansu said: "I plan to buy a set of regular clothes, including clothes, hats and shoes."

There was a smile on the face of the landlady, and she pointed to the various hairpins on the shelf behind her and asked, "I wonder what kind of hairpin your guest would like? The most popular thing these days is jade hairpin. This black jade dragon-shaped hairpin, as long as Twelve yuan of peace money, what do you think of the inn?”

Just twelve yuan in peace money? It seemed that the landlady's "only" was very different, and Qi Xuansu complained in his heart.

However, the expression on his face remained unchanged, and he said noncommittally: "Would the dragon shape be too ostentatious? Or the Molong. Is there anything else?"

This is a very reasonable reason. Although Daomen slaughtered dragons, the imperial court still respected dragons in many places because it inherited some of the old systems of the previous dynasty. In addition, Daxuan admired the black color. This kind of hairpin was used in Yujing. It's nothing, but it's easy to violate taboos when you arrive in the Imperial Capital.

The landlady didn't think too much, and pointed to another simple-looking black jade hairpin: "Where's this one? No matter it's Yujing, Imperial Capital, Wang Ting, or Loulan, it will not violate taboos, and it should be towards Shui Dexuan. Color, the disadvantage is that it is too bland and unremarkable, and it only costs ten yuan.”

Qi Xuansu asked: "That's it."

Next comes the Taoist robe, which is the big head.

As the so-called silk and satin, silk is thin and can transmit light, making it shiny; Luo is light; silk is soft and has a uniform and delicate texture; satin is clear and beautifully woven.

The materials of Taoist robes are mainly silk and satin. Generally speaking, silk and other materials are the preferred materials for women. There is really no sense of beauty when a man wears clothes that are vaguely visible.

Qi Xuansu chose a dark blue satin robe, suitable for winter wear, and it cost thirty yuan in peace money. There are also corresponding lower garments and middle garments, which cost ten yuan in peace money.

Qi Xuansu also chose a pair of black satin square-toed shoes with silver edging. They were made of genuine silver thread and were decorated with broken jade. They cost fifteen yuan in peace money.

Qi Xuansu bought another "gun case" for carrying handguns, which was more exquisite than the one issued by Tiangangtang and cost five yuan of peace money.

In addition, there are folding fans, but considering the current season, Qi Xuansu was not in a hurry to buy such things.

This total cost seventy yuan of peace money. If Qi Xuansu hadn't just received the customary silver, he would have been reluctant to squander it like this.

After Qi Xuansu paid, the proprietress packed the clothes and asked thoughtfully: "Does the guest want a cloak? They are all genuine and have a one-piece hood. They only cost 40 yuan Taiping."

Qi Xuansu took the package and declined politely: "Forget the cloak, I won't use it for the time being."

After Qi Xuansu left this clothing store, he went to a jade shop not far away and spent thirty yuan of peace money to buy a jade pendant that was in pretty good condition.

In this regard, Qi Xuansu did not feel sorry for Taiping Qian, because in addition to Buddhism's preference for gold and gems, Taoism and Confucianism both preferred various jade stones. Therefore, jade pendants have stable prices and are very valuable. When they are short of money, It can also be sold at a discount.

In this way, Qi Xuansu spent a full 100 yuan of Taiping money, and only 200 Taiping money was left.

Now Qi Xuansu somewhat understood why Zhang Yuelu said that the money was not enough. For the word "respectable", it was really too much money to spend. If he bought another spiritual object suitable for himself, it would cost hundreds or thousands of Taiping money, and even a fourth-rank Taoist priest would be stretched.

Qi Xuansu returned home with new clothes, cooked a simple pot of white porridge, and fell asleep.

The next day was the Lower Yuan Festival on October 15, which was the birthday of the Water God. Jinque and Jiutang would organize various sacrificial activities, but Qi Xuansu was resting today, so he didn't have to participate.

He didn't get up until noon, changed into the regular clothes he had just bought, a jade hairpin to tie his hair, a white middle coat, a narrow-sleeved dark blue Taoist robe, satin cloud shoes, and put on the jade pendant, which made him look brand new.

When it was Shenshi, Qi Xuansu, who had packed up, left home, and met Taoist Cui as soon as he went out.

It is said that clothes make the man, and saddles make the horse. Qi Xuansu changed into new clothes, and Cui Daoist nun almost didn't recognize him. She said in surprise: "Tianyuan, I haven't seen you for two months. Have you become rich?"

"Aunt Cui is joking." Qi Xuansu said, "It's the salary from Tiangang Hall that came down. I have enough money, so I bought myself a set of clothes."

Tiangang Hall is not Qingping Society. All income is aboveboard and there is nothing to hide.

Taoist nun Cui looked Qi Xuansu up and down and joked, "When a man takes the initiative to dress himself up, he probably has a girl he likes. Tianyuan, tell me the truth. Whose girl is she? Is she a colleague you met in Tiangang Hall?"

Qi Xuansu waved his hands repeatedly, "No, today is the Lower Yuan Festival, and I have a social gathering with friends."

Taoist nun Cui smiled and said, "In that case, go quickly, I have something to do."

Qi Xuansu's master Qi Haoran was a fourth-rank priest. Taoist nun Cui and Qi Haoran were of the same generation. Of course, they were not ordinary people. He was a fifth-rank Taoist back then, and now he has been promoted to a fourth-rank priest and works in Duzhi Hall. Even if Qi Xuansu has been promoted to a sixth-rank Taoist, he still has to call him "Master Cui". It is only because of their early relationship that he calls her "Aunt Cui".

After Taoist nun Cui left, Qi Xuansu called a sheep cart and went to Taishangfang.

The distance between Xiabafang and Shangbafang is not short. In addition, today is Xiayuan Festival. Shangqing Street and Yuqing Street are crowded with people, and there are even lanterns on both sides of the street. Therefore, even if you take a sheep cart, it takes more than an hour to reach the east gate of Taishangfang.

Qi Xuansu just got off the sheep cart and saw Zhang Yuelu coming out of the east gate.

Zhang Yuelu also changed into a casual dress today, but it was very conservative. She wore a sky blue waist-length double-breasted jacket with buttons all the way to her neck, which was very tight. She was covered with a blue and white vest. Because she had not married yet, she had never tied her hair up, let alone a head full of pearls and jade. She simply tied it up with a wooden hairpin.

If it was during the Great Jin Dynasty, Zhang Yuelu's dress would only be considered ordinary. The reason why it was conservative was that in the previous dynasty, the School of Mind rose and replaced the School of Principle. It no longer blindly eliminated human desires, so the world became more open.

By the end of the Great Wei Dynasty, it had developed to the extreme.

It was not strange for men to wear women's clothes. They would put on lip balm and face powder, tie their hair with red silk, and wear bright red and purple colors. Some even put gold hairpins and jade hairpins in their hair and wore red and purple skirts. There is a poem that says: "Those who wear women's clothes are all scholars."

Women no longer bind their feet and dare to wear clogs. They dress more boldly and develop the "main waist" underwear. The shape is similar to a vest, with an opening facing backwards and a row of buttons or laces nailed to fix it, forming a clear waist. They are well versed in highlighting the figure. Especially in the late Wei Dynasty, it was common for women to wear close-fitting underwear as outerwear. Some bold women did not wear inner clothes and deliberately opened the collar of their outer clothes to expose their main waist.

When the Daxuan court replaced the Dawei, this trend was slightly restrained. At least the trend of men wearing women's clothes was stopped, but they still did not pay attention to etiquette. Although women did not have "fashionable makeup", the fashion trend was also very changeable. The length of tops and skirts was often depreciated, and the style of clothes was narrow or wide. The clothes in all directions imitate those in the imperial capital.

Nowadays, the imperial capital is popular with jackets, which have straight collars, double-breasted, split armpits, and short hems that reach the waist or longer than the knees. Many women do not wear middle clothes, but only wear the main waist, and the jacket on the outside, which will reveal a white area on the chest, which is quite a legacy of the prosperous Qi Dynasty.

In this atmosphere, Zhang Yuelu's dress is elegant and simple, but it is conservative.

However, Qi Xuansu was not surprised by this situation. In fact, based on his understanding of Zhang Yuelu, he even thought that Zhang Yuelu would wear men's clothes, which is also one of the current trends. After all, many women's clothes are too complicated, and it is not as convenient as short men's clothes when riding or fighting with others. When going to Wugoshanli, Zhang Yuelu and Mu Jin were both wearing modified men's clothes. Now they are just a little conservative, which is already very good.